EU Export of used textiles

The yearly volume of used textiles exported from the EU has nearly doubled since 2005, with continued high amounts of exports of around 1.4 million tonnes annually since 2015, and most exports going to Africa and Asia.

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Between 2005 and 2023, the export of used textiles from EU countries more than doubled to around 1.37 million tonnes in 2023 or 3.1 kg per person, and previous EEA publications have shown that it nearly tripled since 2000. The volume has been relatively stable since 2015, with Africa and Asia as the main receiving continents. In 2020, there was a drop in exports due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

The exports mainly include worn clothes and other worn textile articles and only a minor amount of rags and textile scraps. There is currently very limited information on the quality of used textiles due to the absence of specific reporting requirements for textiles that are not considered as waste. Between 2005 and 2023 the main recipients of exported used textiles were Africa and Asia, with Asia steadily catching up with Africa to equal levels of 44,6% and 43,2% respectively in 2023. While exported textiles to Africa are mostly reused or end up in dumps or burned in open landfills, textiles exported to Asia are largely recycled or re-exported.

The introduction of mandatory separate collection of textile waste aiming to boost textile circularity is expected to lead to an increase in export volumes. A profound shift towards circular textile consumption in the EU, such as lower consumption, longer use, increased reuse and increased textile-to-textile recycling in the EU would likely decrease the volume of used textiles exported.

The high volumes of used textiles being exported from the EU have uncertain implications for circularity, since the faith of exported used clothes depends on product quality, type, and global market saturation, amongst other factors. Exported textiles may be reused or recycled, or they could end up in landfills or illegal waste dumping sites. While this complex trade provides a source of income for many globally, it also causes major pressures on the environment and climate.

In the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, one of the key actions is to address the potential challenges from the export of used textiles. In May 2024, the EU adopted a new Waste Shipments Regulation to prevent illegal exports of textile waste to countries that cannot manage it, requiring exporters to prove that receiving facilities manage waste responsibly. In the revision of the Waste Framework Directive, the EC also proposed to clearly define textile waste and distinguish it from reusable textiles, aiming to stop the export of waste disguised as reusable goods. Since the volume of used textiles is expected to increase further following the requirement for all EU Member States to separately collect textile waste by 2025, understanding the destinations of used textiles and the potential challenges associated with these exports is becoming more important.

Furthermore, in March 2024 Denmark, Sweden and France proposed new global rules for exporting textile waste to developing countries to avoid harm to humans, animals and the environment related to the EU’s export. They therefore propose to subject textile waste to the control mechanisms under the Basel Convention, requiring receiving countries to explicitly consent to import waste and prove that they can dispose of the waste in an environmentally-friendly way.

Definition

Exports of used textiles from the EU to the rest of the world, 2005 – 2023, by weight (million tonnes) and receiving continent.

Methodology

This indicator builds on the ComExt database, published by Eurostat. The indicator covers the EU from 2005 – 2023, excluding the UK from 2020 onward cause it left the EU. ComExt aggregates detailed trade statistics from EU member states and trading partners, provided by national statistical agencies. Used textiles exported from the EU are classified into two main SITC product codes: 269.01 – worn clothes and other used textile articles and 269.02 – rags and textile scraps. There is no specific code for the export of textile waste.

In previous EEA publications, this indicator was based on trade data from the UN Comtrade databank. There, the corresponding codes are HS 6309 – worn textiles and clothing and HS 6310 - sorted and unsorted used rags and textile scraps.

There are important limitations to the data. Trade data are based on the reporting of individual countries, and therefore come with some levels of uncertainty. Further, the data on the export and import of used textiles are classified into two main SITC product codes, but the correctness of the classification is uncertain. The fate of imported textiles in receiving countries does not seem to reflect the commodity codes of exported textiles. While only a small fraction of exports is classified as intended for recycling, imports to Asia mainly go to economic zones where textiles are mostly recycled or re-exported to other countries.

The lack of clear distinctions in EU product classifications between shipments of high-quality used clothing and textile waste, combined with inconsistent textile waste classification practices by EU member states, are thus major shortcomings for this indicator.

Metadata

Data source: Eurostat ComExt

Unit: million tonnes

Temporal coverage: 2005 - 2023

Geographic coverage: EU

Literature

EEA (2023): EU Exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy.

ETC CE (2023/4): EU Exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy.

Köhler et al. (2021): Circular Economy Perspectives in the EU Textile Sector.

EC (2022): EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles

Upcoming ETC/CE (2025/6): Textiles and the environment: the role of digital technologies

References and footnotes

ETC/CE Report 2023/4: EU Exports of used textiles in Eu-rope’s circular economy.
^a^b
European Parliament and the Council (2024): Regulation (EU) 2024/1157 on shipments of waste. receiving facilities manage waste responsibly.
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European Commission (2023): COM(2023) 420 final. Proposal for a Directive of the European Parliament and of the Council amending Directive 2008/98/EC on waste.
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Danish Environmental Ministry (2024): Denmark, Sweden and France call for new global rules on exporting textile waste to developing countries.
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ETC/CE (2023/4): EU Exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy.
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